Description

This is almost a 1-1 transcript of this video by Chris Fix posted on Youtube, but I made small adjustments for the tools and the time I had, and included warnings and details about many things.

This guide works on classic glossy paints, but the results may vary on paints that are metallic, pearlescent, or some other exotic paint varieties. Seek further help for those.

In the details below, consider polishing to be 100% required. You will not like the result otherwise. Don't try it.

Pick a good sunny day that isn't too humid or your paint will not dry properly.

Needed materials, information and tools:

  1. Microfiber. 1-2 normal towels is enough.
    • Do yourself a favor and get some quality microfiber that doesn't leave small scuffs no matter how lightly you buff.
  2. Decontaminant. Rubbing alcohol will do just fine.
  3. Car shampoo (optional).
  4. Soapy water.
  5. A sharp blade.
  6. Car paint code. Take your time to match the paint code exactly. Consider paying someone for this. If the touch up pen is not exactly matched, do not attempt this.
  7. Polish materials. The mildest of polish jobs will do fine in this case, but do as you see fit.
    1. Polish product (I used Meguiar's Ultimate, which as far as I know is a medium cut and medium finish product).
    2. Polish pad.
    3. DA polisher (optional - if machine polishing).
  8. Painter's Tape (note if you are using construction painter's tape: do not leave it on the paint for more than 30 minutes else it will begin to react with the paint and you will not be able to get the sticky substance off without taking the paint with it).
  9. A soft polish block (optional - if polishing by hand).
  10. A very small object the size of a domino block that can be used to finely sand along the scratch.
  11. A paint touch up pen.
    1. Must have separated clear coat and base coat.
    2. Must have some actual paint. Do not use the ones that dissolve existing paint to fill in the gap in this guide! They work fine for tiny scratches just by themselves, but this process is useless if you are going to be using something like that.
    3. Better if it comes with a solid tip for scratching the bad paint off but is not required.
    4. Matching paint code obviously.
  12. Sandpaper with grits...
    1. 400,
    2. 800,
    3. 1500,
    4. 2000,
    5. 3000,
    6. 5000.
Steps
  1. sand the work area
    1. with 400, blade or tough touch up pen tip to remove any rust, and to smooth out the scratch / rock chip, until you can no longer catch your nail on any edges
    2. with 800

    • Consider folding sandpaper incompletely, and using the rounded fold to sand.

  2. decontaminate
  3. clean using car shampoo or soapy water and dry with microfiber
  4. apply painter's tape in preparation for base coat
    • Leave open the visible base coat and possible primer
    • You may tape over sanded area and over clear coat
    • Tape as close as possible to the visible base coat
  5. apply touch up paint base coat
    1. paint a thin layer from top to bottom
    2. wait 5 minutes
    3. repeat until the new paint is above the level of the old paint in all spots

    • Blobs are fine, ignore them, do not try to correct them. More is better.

  6. remove painter's tape at a 45 degree angle away from the working area
    • Consider keeping some of the tape so that you don't forget where the scratch is, if it's very big.
    • Use the blade if you need to.
  7. wait 1 hour
  8. wetsand the new paint with 800 wrapped on the very thin object and soapy water until you can't feel height differences anymore
    1. touch up any crevices if you see any, but you don't need to wait the full 1 hour after reapplying paint
  9. decontaminate
  10. apply clear coat
    1. paint one thin layer feathering into the original clear coat
      • Again, more is better.
    2. wait 10 minutes and apply another layer
    • Tape can be used but is not necessary, it can be messy.
  11. wait 1 hour
  12. wetsand with 800 until smooth
    • Try not to leave the new clear coat too much.
  13. finer wetsand incrementally feathering into the original clear coat
    1. 1500
    2. 2000
    3. 3000 on soft object (optional)
    4. 5000 on soft object (optional)
    • At the end the feather should be a few centimeters into the original clear coat.
  14. polish & buff off as you see fit
    • This step is more for inspecting your work more than anything. If everything looks good after this stage you may stop with no harm done. If after polishing you notice a significant difference, continue.
  15. wetsand with 3000 and then 5000 on the soft object in a large area feathering into the rest of the paint
  16. polish again as above
  17. wait at least 1 month before applying any sort of paint protection so that the paint gets to cure
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